St Conan’s Kirk
Mid-week in our exploration of the Scottish mainland near Bute we stopped at St Conan’s Kirk, a curious faux-medieval church with Gaudi-esque columns and crenelated walls. The curious church is situated overlooking Loch Awe and was only consecrated as recently as 1930, though the design was initiated by one Walter Campbell as early as 1886.
It's all in the detail….
A series of impressive stained-glass windows and interestingly carved chairs made the interior well worth the visit, as did the quaint cloister. The siting of the church itself is remarkable, seeming to cling to the steep hillside tumbling down to Loch Awe. There are gargoyles to spot, a solid oak communion table and odd-shaped windows in peculiar places.
The Hollow Mountain
Another unusual place in Argyll is like the set of a Bond movie: the “Hollow Mountain” aka the Cruachan Power Station. A terrific exhibition and a kilometre journey into the depths of the mountain revealed some tales of the epic scope and heroism (and tragedy) of the building of this impressive source of green power.
You say urinal…
After the peculiar church and the monumental hydro-electric station, it was of course time to visit the toilet (although on a different day) and these toilets, Rothesay's Victorian Toilets, being a tourist attraction, were far from ordinary. We’re talking Victorian splendour. We’re talking pissoirs to be proud of….
Ruin with a view
When Harriet and Chris were skirting the wilds at the end of the peninsula, the history geeks in the family dragged Sally to yet another castle. (You can’t have too many castle visits, I say!) Rothesay Castle is a ruin on the Isle of Bute and has a strange circular design, definitely like a toy castle and with friendly staff and informative panels. There was a castle on the site by the 14th century and it has had its fair share of drama, including a temporary occupation by Oliver Cromwell’s army during the Civil Wars.
Quid pro quo
You give me castle, I give you garden…. Probably one of my highlights on this trip was our visit to the Ascog Hall Garden and Fernery, in particular the “secret garden” aspect of the Fernery with its dilapidated walls and ongoing restorations. Some of the planting seemed prehistoric to me and every turn produced a surprise.
Gulf Stream
Ruined stables, strange grasses, rhododendrons, yuccas, greens of every shade, a wishing well…. And plants, shrubs and trees from round the world, not surprising since the planting was begun by Edward La Trobe Bateman who had designed The Botanic Gardens in Melbourne, Australia. The sheltered walls and the effect of the warm Gulf Stream has produced this wonderful oasis.
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